"A three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Roanne, France, famed for the purity, simplicity, and unpretentiousness of its cooking. The brothers’ kitchen treated everyday food with the same seriousness as haute cuisine, emphasizing fresh, variable ingredients, precise technique, tasting at every stage, and doing right by fundamentals like a sharp knife and the correct pan. Hospitality in the household and hotel kitchen—exemplified by a humble but revelatory ham sandwich prepared for a late arrival—served as a formative education in how modest, well-made food can teach one to eat and cook, and it impressed upon visitors the idea that good cooking is artisanal and communal rather than theatrical." - Aimee Levitt