


80

"During a weekend Contramar collaboration dinner at Enrique Olvera’s Damian, I enjoyed seafood plates like briny caviar sopes, an octopus taco made more formidable with charred sweet potato puree, and branzino a la brasa served alongside silky black bean dip and heirloom corn tortillas to marry them. What struck me most, though, were the classic Olvera-coded meringue desserts that I had never experienced until now. While Damian has long had a hibiscus meringue on its menu, the cornhusk meringue, which has been served at Olvera’s restaurant Cosme in New York, made an appearance, as well as a coconut-lime rendition. Cosme’s cornhusk version is wonderfully subtle with blue-corn-tinged meringue that gets broken into halves and piped with burnt vanilla cream and corn mousse. It’s a mic-drop finish no matter where you have it." - Eater Staff