"This 21-plus pasta bar is something of a spiritual successor to the late First Hill legend Vito’s, complete with some of the same staff, though here you’re more likely to spot a drag queen than a mafioso. It’s seat-yourself and frequently packed, so prepare for the possibility of waiting outside for 15 or 20 minutes on a Friday night, and be ready to swoop on an open table or bar stool like a carb-seeking bird of prey. Their specialty cocktails are playful and well-balanced, but the bartenders really show their chops when it comes to a no-frills negroni. The meatballs are moist (sorry) and toothsome thanks to a nice ratio of breadcrumbs in the base, and the “zesty” marinara has a pleasantly surprising kick to it. The pasta comes out quickly and screaming hot, and the generous portion sizes mean a single bowl could be a satisfying snack for two during the 10 p.m.-midnight happy hour, when they’re only $10 each." - Sophie Grossman