Times Restaurant Critic Marina O’Loughlin Does Not Like British Pubs | Eater London

"A theatrically styled, 'high octane' venue that, despite critical skepticism, remains perpetually rammed; it's known for showy, expensive plates and bold presentation—illustrated by dishes such as "Josper Vine smoked Ribeye of Wagyu Beef with Canary Island & Nikkei dressing served alongside tempura of Spanish potato omelette with egg yolk sabayon (£75)"—and for chefs who favor striking, even straitjacket-chic, wardrobes. The author has avoided it based on trusted recommendations and a reluctance to spend on potentially divisive experiences, yet accepts that many diners are drawn to its spectacle." - Marina O'Loughlin