"Los Angeles can credit the Goldster to expanding the average Angeleno’s culinary horizons: “Barn Rau, you understand, is not a palace of cuisine. Instead of the kinds of sophisticated curries and rice salads you find at a Southern Thai restaurant like Jitlada, you find deep-fried cocktail franks wrapped in wonton wrappers, things like prik king and panang you may not have tasted since the 1980s, and a Thai version of Chinese hot-and-sour soup. Jitlada slashes the skin of a sea bass, rubs it with turmeric and chile, and fries it until the skin shatters like glass. Barn Rau’s trout is deboned and cooked to the kind of crunch you may associate with crumbling Michigan roadhouses.” [LAW]" - Crystal Coser