Pete Wells Doles Out One Loving Star to Jamaican Restaurant the Islands | Eater NY

"Reopened in a larger space with table service at 671 Washington Ave., between Prospect Place and St. Marks Avenue, I found the Islands—a longtime Jamaican restaurant owned by Marilyn Reid on the Crown Heights–Prospect Heights border—still worth seeking out even though some menu items are often unavailable. The flattened fritters of salt cod, known as stamp and go, were crunchy and golden, and the escovitch I had was a whole red snapper, obviously fresh and fried just until firm, with a vinegar dressing laced with hot chiles and pickled bell peppers, carrots and cucumbers that made it more interesting than usual. From the old days the curried goat remained very tender and richly seasoned, though never scalp‑piercingly spicy, and I’ve found a new standby in the curried vegetables, where golden raisins, turmeric and allspice may do even more for cabbage and carrots than they do for goat meat. I also dug the barbecued chicken over the jerk, the rice and peas, the fried plantains and the stewed cabbage; when I’m in the mood for something miraculous I remind myself that the Islands is still in business—you can’t stop gentrification, but sometimes you can fool it while it’s looking the other way. I awarded it one star." - Serena Dai