"Here’s how to order at The Great Thai. Go to the right Great Thai, not the Great Thai takeaway place round the corner. Ignore the set lunch menu. Do not be distracted by upselling aunties. Get boat noodles, murky and ditchwater brown but so full of flavour, with the sharp nasal hit of white pepper. As good as it gets round the back of Oxford Circus. Get the yen ta fo if needing something milder. Chilli oil status: Chopped pickled chillis instead." - Jonathan Nunn