Welcome to Los Angeles’s White-Hot Chinese American Summer | Eater LA
"A forthcoming Santa Monica fast-casual Chinese American restaurant run by chef Bryant Ng and his wife, Kim Luu-Ng, built around an affordable, approachable model with a well-stocked steam table buffet and meal prices ranging from $12 to $20. Ng emphasizes accessibility: “We wanted to make sure that we had something that, from a price point perspective, was very approachable,” and adds, “We don’t come from generational wealth. We don’t come from privilege. We wanted a restaurant that was accessible to everyday people like ourselves, especially right now.” The kitchen does not skimp on creativity or ingredients: a beef-and-broccoli riff takes cues from Chinese Peruvian lomo saltado — “A smattering of beef, broccoli, tomatoes, onions, and fried potatoes gets wok-fired in a savory green bird’s eye chile sauce” — and Ng calls the dish, “It’s an ode to our brethren’s diaspora culture in Peru. A celebration of all the diaspora together in one dish. What could be more American than that?” A kale salad combines kale, cabbage, scallions, quinoa, and roasted cashews with a cashew dressing and the menu notes that while it “may look like it came from a California-Mediterranean spread, dishes like this show how Chinese American cuisine keeps evolving.” The overall format and price point are intended to meet diners where they are while expanding the definition of Chinese American fare beyond familiar fast-casual comparisons." - Cathy Chaplin
