"While Mayfair’s Modern Indian restaurants are lively with bustle and chatter, not many people appear to have discovered this basement venue opposite Cadogan Hall in Chelsea: the spacious, attractively designed split-level restaurant had few customers on a recent visit. Reflecting the background of Chennai-born Peter Joseph, previously of Tamarind and Tamarind Kitchen, there are several South Indian-inspired plates on the menu, with an emphasis on dishes cooked in the tandoor and on a robata grill, to be served with minimal, but considered accompaniment. Octopus and calamari chaat balances sweet, tangy, bitter and sharp with its combination of grapefruit, sweet potatoes and kasundi mustard, while aubergine steak comes in peeled, mustard-crusted barrels topped with avocado chutney, the look and texture similar to pearlescent fish. Nagercoil cloves, grown in the Western Ghats outside Tamil Nadu, are noted for their heady perfume; here they lend their distinct flavour to tandoori lamb chops." - Sejal Sukhadwala
