"James Trees’ French bistro channels a brasserie spirit with meticulous sauces, super-crispy fries, and a menu that nods to both shellfish towers and beef tartare; the atmosphere pairs well with a smartly curated French wine list. The standout is the moules au safran: a heaping pot of cracked mussels bathed in a buttery white-wine and tarragon mustard broth with saffron perfume, the tender, almost-sweet mussels and flavorful jus made perfect for sopping up with crackly slices of baguette." - Janna Karel