"If the city’s Lebanese food scene is undergoing something of a renaissance, it’s in no small part thanks to restaurateur Soufian Mamlouk. He’s one of the driving forces behind Heni, an upscale spot where the flavors of the SWANA region intermingle with Quebec’s seasonal bounty, and Sienna, a wine import outfit focused on Lebanon. But Mamlouk’s dedication to spotlighting the cultural and culinary traditions of his native Lebanon began with Lulu Épicerie, a small street food counter that has been quietly redefining what shawarma means to Montrealers since 2022. Unlike the lettuce- and tomato-stuffed wraps popularized by local chains, the version here is fiercely traditional and uncompromising on the ratio of meat to sauce to bread. The shawarma is wrapped in marqouq, a thin, crisp alternative to pita perfect for soaking in the flavors and maintaining structural integrity. The chicken version — there are also beef and potato options — features garlic sauce, wild pickles, and a touch of pomegranate molasses. That’s it; no filler. Also on offer: charcoal-grilled meats like kafta and shish taouk, an assortment of mouajanat (savory pastries), and manakeesh (try the half cheese, half za’atar). Best for: A quick bite on the go, a picnic, or a big family gathering (with a shawarma party platter)." - Valerie Silva