"The Smith has long been a target of derision for the culinary elite, easily dismissed as a generic American bistro that chucks together a bunch of hip restaurant trends — Edison bulbs! Subway tiling! Truffle fries! — seemingly just for profit. It now has six locations, which all hit on a specific, winning formula, broken down into three parts: First is a focus on variety and quality, serving (sometimes watered down) versions of the greatest hits of food from around the world — think raw bar, empanadas, burgers, and bibimbap. Second is keeping that food at prices suited to weeknight levels, with entrees in the $20s and $30s, and the last part is serving it all in a buzzy, trendyish space without the long waits or tough reservations of its more esteemed counterparts. It makes dining out easy." - Stefanie Tuder