"Gloria is a lot: “Youporn” pizza (good base); cacio e pepe served out of a wheel of cheese; a lemon meringue pie bigger than necessary. What Parisian restaurant group Big Mamma’s London debut captures is a sense of hedonistic maximalism — to serve all of these things without irony or undercutting, and to revel in the fun that comes with them. Its bright yellow exterior and surfeit of foliage in the heart of London’s most normcore-cool neighbourhood marks it out even further. Now also home to Napoli Gang, a delivery-only offering." - Adam Coghlan, James Hansen