"Sometimes all it takes is one dish to recommend a place: In Peckham that might be the £1.80 baozi from Steamer, or the steak mulitas from Taco Queen. Bellenden Road’s Lovely House advertises itself as a dim sum house, but in reality it is a Chinese takeaway with a bamboo steamer ─ no bad thing in itself. The dim sum is fine; the litany of British-Chinese dishes is no better or worse than anywhere else nearby. Instead, look at the dish that disrupts it: hot and spicy potatoes. Chinese cuisine’s bedrock of rice and noodles hides the fact its potato preparations are simply elite, and these come as thick, brassy wedges, smoky from the wok, with spring onions, coriander and the concentrated umami of approximately 1000 black beans detonating in the mouth. The potatoes are alternately crispy and fudgy when hot, but are even better after an overnight stay in the fridge, perhaps soaked in chilli oil and dipped in Kewpie for a luxurious breakfast (in bed.)" - Jonathan Nunn
