How Spam Musubi and Irreverent Drinks Turned Real Charmer Into LA’s Hottest Cocktail Bar | Eater LA
"When the prolific bar owner Dustin Lancaster (Bar Covell, Capri Club, Shim Sham) took over Virgil Village’s former Bolita bar (R.I.P. Smog Cutters), he brought on a handful of experts—Pete St. Peter from Eagle Rock’s Capri Club consulted on the menu, while Thunderbolt veteran Kayla Dowell came on to act as beverage director—and opened the concept in November 2024. The team quickly turned the space into a bold red-hued room with moody lights and candles, a neon water fountain, quirky tchotchkes, a self-serve popcorn machine, and a menu featuring Spam musubi, tinned fish, and imaginative drinks. Concoctions include a rum-infused HMS Scorpion and a High Tea made with Earl Grey‑infused Wild Turkey Bourbon; additions have included a chai piña colada, an espresso cocktail with rum, and plans for a slushy machine for summer. That gamble has paid off: the spot is described as one of the hottest cocktail bars in Los Angeles. On opening challenges and reception, beverage director Kayla Dowell says: "Going in knowing that the neighborhood has gone through so many iterations with the space. I kept thinking, 'Oh my God, I hope they accept us.' I hoped that it could be just a cool neighborhood bar where you can get a really good cocktail. We made a lot of adjustments with the staff and were figuring out how busy we might be. Turns out, we are busier than anticipated." On response: "It’s been amazing. People keep discovering us, and the feedback has been so welcoming. Others were keeping an eye and waiting for us to open, and they are excited to have an extension of the neighborhood again. We have a lot of industry bartenders and hospitality workers as customers in the neighborhood or on their way home from work. The weekends have turned the bar into an attraction, with groups of young people celebrating birthdays or even older crowds coming to hang out." On menu tweaks and sourcing: "We started with a small signature cocktail menu. We made a couple of additions, like the chai piña colada and espresso cocktail with rum, that have been really fun, and a slushy machine, which will be a banger in the summer. The menu is super concentrated, and it doesn’t need the big upsell menus we see in other bars. I feel like we can play it into our smaller menu and represent ourselves well. We source our spam musubi from Aloha Catering in Westlake, and everyone loves our tinned fish from Fishwives. It’s a nice spread of options. We’re going to get a bigger popcorn maker." On opening amid regional challenges: "It was a challenge. Not only did we open during the harder holiday months, but once we turned a corner, the fires happened. We hadn’t seen any consistency at that point. We came out of it fairly quickly, though. People seemed to feel like they couldn’t stay cooped up in the house. I’m such a huge advocate of utilizing the bar to cope. And people were at the bar to connect again. When these things happen, it is great to be that kind of place for people, even though we were so new." On late-night programming and neighborhood history: "Three months in, we decided to open Tuesdays and came up with a late-night craft service vibe. It’s so cool, and I didn’t realize there was such a big karaoke community, because they came out! It’s grown where people know about it. It’s an ode to Smog Cutters (the tenant before Bolita), which was a massive neighborhood elephant. It is a tribute to that." On how the concept fits into the larger scene: "Our quality of effort, prep, and everything, there are a lot of layers in this cocktail bar. As for the vibe, I hope everyone feels cozy, comfortable, and transported — almost like escapism at home." This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity." - Mona Holmes
