"Theo (pronounced Teh-Oh) Cristo grew up in Espírito Santo. Today, the restaurant he opened nearly three decades ago in Boston’s North End flies American, Italian, and Brazilian flags outside, but the house special is pure Espírito Santo tradition — moqueca Capixaba. Not to be confused with moqueca Baiana, the state of Bahia’s method that uses palm oil and coconut milk, Cristo uses strictly olive oil. His moqueca is lighter and accentuates fresh tomato, cilantro, and house-made hot sauce. To some Brazilians, palm oil and olive oil is the difference between mere fish stew and a tropical elixir that transports you home. “This place has the best moqueca in Boston,” said a customer one afternoon at Theo’s. “The best in Brazil,” amended another." - Drew Hulse
