Where to Find Soul-Soothing Ramen in Portland and Beyond

"This Nagahama ramen shop, in the former Noraneko space, has fine-tuned its rendition of the celebrated tonkotsu style in its brief tenure. The broth has the distinct richness typical of tonkotsu, but it doesn’t come across as unnecessarily heavy; instead, it almost undetectably coats the thin noodles, which retain a satisfying bite. The chashu slices hew thick, juicy with a slight sear, and the shop doesn’t skimp on the sesame seeds and green onion. This isn’t the kind of place where diners can stack their bowls with a laundry list of add-ons and toppings, but it doesn’t need to be: What it does simply is simply exceptional. For variations, diners can opt for things like Sapporo-style miso, a vegetarian tantanmen, or a spicy chicken paitan." - Ron Scott, Eater Staff