At Ethel’s Fancy in Palo Alto, a Former Fine Dining Chef Puts Playful Twists on Japanese American Cuisine - Eater SF
"After cooking at some of the most lauded restaurants in the country, including three-Michelin-starred Daniel and the French Laundry, chef Scott Nishiyama says he’s ready to have some fun. And though it’s been about four years in the making, with the September 3 opening of his debut restaurant Ethel’s Fancy in Palo Alto, he’s finally doing exactly that. In some ways, the much-anticipated restaurant — named by Bon Appetit as one of the most exciting new restaurants in the country — falls into the crowded category of serving high-end, seasonal, and ingredient-driven cuisine. But looking deeper into the details, it’s clear that Nishiyama put many aspects of his personal experiences into the project, pulling childhood snacks onto the plate and taking inspiration from his favorite food memories. 'First and foremost I wanted it to be a very personal restaurant,' Nishiyama says. 'I feel like that’s what people gravitate toward.' It starts with the name: Ethel is an homage to both Nishiyama’s mother and maternal grandmother. As a first-generation Japanese American, Nishiyama wanted the space to have subtle Japanese influences, including the blue-and-white fabric encasing the main dining room and the chromatic wallpaper in one of the bathrooms, reminiscent of the Great Wave off Kanagawa woodblock print. In the other bathroom, custom-made manga wallpaper depicts Nishiyama and his mother cooking together. For the menu, Nishiyama wanted to focus on shareable plates, food he says you can pass around and eat with your hands. 'I feel like that kind of dining is more inclusive,' he says. 'That’s what we want to do: have fun.' Eventually, he’d like to add a chef’s tasting option, but for now, it’s a la carte only and diners should expect dishes to come and go frequently as the seasons change and ingredients cycle off the menu." - Lauren Saria
