"DTK is one of the very few restaurants in the whole of London to specialise in Delta cuisine, the food from Delta State in the South-South of Nigeria, where the Niger splays out into the Atlantic. The writer Yemisi Aribisala cites food from the Niger Delta as having the most sophisticated aromatics amongst all Nigerian food: the name ‘pepper soup’ doesn’t even begin to hint at the interplay of musk, woods and florality of calabash nutmeg, grains of Selim, grains of paradise and coco plum in a good Deltan version. A dusky, turmeric hued banga soup is the most popular dish here, and the most representative of Delta cuisine ─ a whole fish in creamy palm nut soup, paired with a yellow baggy of starch, with those aromatics swooping down the back of the throat and up the nose, working in tandem to clear the sinuses. It’s enough to banish that lazy word “peppery” forever." - Jonathan Nunn