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"Located at the corner of Wabash and Monroe in the Loop, the casual taqueria side officially opened in May after giving customers a sneak preview over summer 2024 during Lollapalooza weekend. Co-owner César Fajardo says he and business partner Christopher Roldán haven’t just launched a restaurant but a brand that will “reshape how people think about Mexico, its culture, and people.” The operation deliberately eschews taco platters and “seeks to emulate Mexico’s taco stands, where customers order items one at a time,” and Fajardo adds, “Besides the flavor, we think taquerias are more about the culture of getting a taco, and some of those things haven’t been imported well into the United States,” noting that “You’re setting the pace of the rhythm of how much you want to eat.” With its main entrance on Wabash, the taqueria offers an abbreviated menu of what’s available in the neighboring cantina: step up to the orange counter to get a card that will be linked to a credit card, and linger to watch nixtamalized masa made from varieties of heirloom Mexican corn being pressed by hand before being placed on the tortilla-making machine; “The tortillas are also available for purchase in vacuum-sealed bags.” On ingredients and technique Fajardo emphasizes, “Because 70 percent of our dishes are based on maiz, we put a lot of effort to have good corn.” Menu highlights include shareables such as elotes, guacamole, and ridged potato chips sprinkled with lime juice and hot sauce; tostadas layered with grilled ribeye, spicy tuna, and Sinaloan-style fish with a chile-lime kick (the fried tortillas are sturdy enough to pick up); six taco varieties including ribeye topped with crispy potato strips, fried whitefish with mango pico de gallo, birria-style mushrooms, and shaved beef from a trompo paired with vegetables; and full comida corrida-style stews (guisados) like slow-braised beef tongue and cochinita pibil, all served with rice, beans, and tortillas." - Lisa Shames
Authentic Mexico City street tacos, heirloom corn tortillas, fresh salsas