
3

"I ordered a plate of pasta with salmon at Mama Safia’s Kitchen on Lake Street after chef and owner Safia Munye relocated following her original location burning down in 2020; the fish peeked out from under sauteed onions and peppers in the lead photo. I appreciated the historical context—pasta was introduced to Somalia during Italian colonial rule and Somali, Eritrean, and Ethiopian cooks have since made it their own—but here the dish itself was hearty and comforting, usually served with tilapia but that night with salmon, and it was brought to new heights by the requisite banana whose starchy sweetness balanced the hot green sauce I drizzled over it. I also tried a plate of slow-cooked, aromatic goat with rice and a pretty immaculate sambusa." - Justine Jones