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"On St-Denis in the Plateau I visit Nail Salem’s Mazbi Restaurant, where the Yemeni tradition of kahwah—an aromatic hot drink with cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, ginger and cloves—echoes in the kitchen: lamb and chicken are cooked on the mazbi flat stone grill for a tender, smoky flavour, and Salem is preparing slow-cooked mandi dishes (traditionally cooked underground and here approximated indoors) to offer a quick iftar of shorba, sambosas and a choice of four dishes—mandi lamb or chicken plus two vegetarian options—before reopening the rest of the menu after the fast-break rush." - Ivy Lerner-Frank