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"In Nomad I discovered a new high-end omakase that has run under the radar despite a very pedigreed team: a $285-per-person (gratuity included) omakase from chef Shigeyuki Tsunoda, who was brought from Tokyo’s Michelin-starred Sushi Iwa by owners Justin Hauser and David Hess and moved to NYC with his family. The experience is edomae-style, with fish flown from Japan alongside some local sourcing; typical offerings include various unis, monkfish liver, sea perch, toro, about eight starting dishes, 11 pieces of sushi, tamago, and an ice-cream dessert, and the menu changes daily. What sets the place apart is Ken Fulk’s opulent, occasionally wacky design—he cites “James Bond opium dens” and Alice in Wonderland—which shows up as red-shaded lighting, cobalt-blue banquettes, pink velvet stools at a 10-seat semi-circle sushi bar backed by exposed brick, an antique apothecary cabinet in the front bar specializing in Japanese whiskey and sake, and servers in Comme des Garçons uniforms. Hauser and Hess also prioritized an elevated arrival: diners wait in the front bar for a pre-dinner cocktail (seasonal menu by former EN bartender Nick Krens in collaboration with Kenta Goto) before the entire seating moves to a custom circular wooden sushi counter designed so larger groups can dine together. Noda is open for dinner Tuesday–Saturday (6 p.m. and 9 p.m.) and Monday at 8 p.m., with reservations on Tock." - Stefanie Tuder