"Helmed by Chef James Trees as a return to his culinary roots, this French-leaning restaurant opens service with crackly, crusty baguettes and rich French butter and favors traditional preparations executed with meticulous attention to detail. Classic dishes shine—the steak frites arrive with fries that are carefully sliced, mashed, frozen, and fried; broths, sauces, and consommes are kept velvety and precise; red wine–braised beef in the boeuf bourguignon falls apart tender; and a heaping pot of moules au safran comes in a buttery white-wine and tarragon-mustard sauce perfect for dunking a wedge of bread. The room feels French but never stuffy, with wide windows, blush tones, and patterned wallpaper, and a dessert menu (including macaron sundaes) is worth saving room for." - Janna Karel