"Born from the chef’s fieldwork recording recipes in 40 villages, this restaurant showcases rescued regional dishes—including the once-disappearing “greasy dumplings” that inspired his preservation efforts—and drew around 2,500 people on opening night. Linked to a publishing house that documents regional cookery and to a foundation that trains young students in traditional folk cooking, the establishment emphasizes food as a unifying force, attracts a diverse clientele who share their differences at one table, and reflects the collaborative contributions of the chef and his wife." - Brenna Houck