"Specializing in Chiuchow-influenced Cantonese seafood and lively, sometimes theatrical presentations, the kitchen stages a showpiece 'typhoon shelter' Dungeness crab with sticky rice—deep-fried crab atop a mound of rice studded with fried garlic, preserved meats, green chile and egg, plus two textures of crunch from breadcrumbs and fried wonton strips—that rewards communal, dinner-time feasting. At lunch the focus shifts to meticulous dim sum served via a check-off menu rather than carts, and from a corner perch the dining room offers picture windows framing downtown and the North Shore Mountains. Chef Sam Leung, who arrived from Guangdong in 1985, balances inventive Western touches (tomato-colored dumpling dough, lemon-cut sugared pastry for barbecue-pork pies, duck-stuffed taro dumplings) with immaculate technique—his har gow are cited as among the most faultless outside Hong Kong." - Bill Addison