"This hole in the wall in the Surquillo district used to be a hidden gem, but chef Tomas Matsufuji’s skills are now well known. The small counter only sits eight to 10 people and only at lunch, but for a surprisingly fair price guests enjoy abundant flavor. Matsufuji’s combinado includes ceviche, deep-fried calamari, and seafood rice, and lucky diners may also find daily specials. If you want to wash it down with beer, bring your own, because the chef only offers chicha morada, a traditional corn beverage that pairs well with his food. Don’t leave without drinking the leche de tigre, concocted to be both delicious and restorative for hangovers. [$-$$]" - Liliana López Sorzano