German Doner Kebab

German Doner Kebab Chain Opens in NYC

"An international fast-food chain’s busy Astoria outpost with a minimal black façade and a frenetic, grand-opening energy; staff shave meat from spits behind glass while customers queue for to-go orders and fries get dusted with curry powder. The signature “original German doner” arrives in a square, toasted sesame waffle bread reportedly sourced from Dubai and stuffed with thinly sliced meat (from Maryland), lettuce, cabbage, onions, and tomato, but the meat often appears pale and under-browned—more like moist deli beef—and the sandwich is skimpier on sauce than it should be. The menu also pushes novelty items (including a Doritos-branded “Doner Krunch Burger”), which underscores the commercial, fast-food angle and leaves a sense that it doesn’t quite match traditional, on-the-spot doner craftsmanship." - Tammie Teclemariam