Hori Is an Invite-Only Izakaya in NYC

"Down a narrow flight of stairs off a nondescript stretch of East 50th Street, I found a 14-seat izakaya inside Studio Calmplex, divided into an eight-seat bar and a six-seat room, where Chef Tsuyoshi Hori aimed to be considerate of neighbors and the unusual location. The restaurant operates under the Japanese ichigensan okotowari system—first-time diners must be guests of a regular and abide by a strict “no social media” rule; once you’ve dined and followed the rules you can register and unlock otherwise invisible reservations (Resy shows no bookable tables). Inspired by Midnight Diner and built around “jouren” regulars, the place has a warm, casual vibe and a special overall experience that encourages loyalty rather than one-off visits. Menu prices are intentionally low and playful—a rotating $1 special by request, $9.50 handmade buckwheat soba from Maine, a $4.50 potato salad topped with fried soba strands, $7 dashimaki tamago—while the sake list ranges from about $100 to $3,000. The system lets Hori experiment with nightly specials (recent examples include a grilled beef-tongue special and a second dish using tongue trimmings simmered in sake lees), and diners I spoke with described the chef as funny and warm and the service as requiring a respectful, somewhat sophisticated approach to dishes like soba." - Anna Hezel