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"Opened in 1997 by Mohammad Nasim and Abdul Jabeer, this family-run Astoria spot is co-owned and co-cheffed by the duo, who still grill at a prominent redbrick front grill and move freely between the kitchen and dining room while greeting customers in Farsi and Pashto. Their signature kabli palow — basmati rice baked with cumin seeds, carrots, and raisins and topped with a massive slow-cooked lamb shank — has been a mainstay since day one; the menu also highlights manto (steamed beef-and-onion dumplings), tandoori chicken, tikka kababs, and other dishes served with a much-enjoyed yogurt-garlic sauce, with baklava offered for dessert. With roots in Kunduz and Balkh, the owners have kept the same homemade recipes and warm, family-friendly atmosphere for more than two decades, attracting not only Afghan customers but many Greek diners as well and serving as a gathering place for Afghan immigrants and refugees. The owners’ daughters are frequent visitors, underscoring the restaurant’s homey, community-oriented vibe." - Sam Russek