
5

"While not the first to coin the term naanini”— the late Floyd Cardoz’s Bombay Bread Bar offered one with lamb and mustard potatoes in 2018 — this West Village deli revived the panini portmanteau as a gorditalike wrap. I first covered the chicken-tikka variation that went viral and found it delicious in its own gooey, sa-cy right. Yet I enjoyed the Kerala-beef naanini even more. The meat is juicy and distinct from the strata of curry leaf crisp, aloo, and mint chutney. Do what I did and bring a friend so you can try a half of each. We both ended up making second meals of our leftovers." - Tammie Teclemariam