

9

"Tucked among Boerum Hill’s brownstones, this candle-lit wine bar feels cozy at first and then gradually turns noisy and bustling as the night goes on, transforming into a packed room hosting a mentalist’s magic show. Sitting in a corner booth with the wine director, Joseph Signa, I worked through bottles like Escargot, a Chardonnay–Sauvignon Blanc blend by Marie and Vincent Tricot, while playing a game called “What do bubbles sound like?” and talking about which bottles make the best dinner-party wines. As the crowd thickened and a random group squeezed in next to us for the show, the place took on a secret, almost theatrical dimension when Signa led us out through a hidden wine cellar and an escape hatch around the back, making the bar feel like a slightly surreal, insiders’ hangout embedded in the neighborhood. The combination of thoughtful natural-wine selections, intimate booth seating, and a late-night, scene-y energy makes it feel both like a low-key neighborhood spot and a destination for wine people and curious onlookers alike." - Alyssa Shelasky