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"The chef’s first New York restaurant, opened in 1984, credited with pioneering early California-cuisine trends such as wood-fired Italian cooking, roast chickens, and hearty salads; the kitchen’s 1980s approach sought to emulate a classic French poulet de Bresse using free-range yardbirds, often halving and pan-sizzling them skin-side on charcoal and finishing them with a brown-butter tarragon sauce—a formative formula that influenced later signature dishes." - Adam Platt