La Playa, Carmel-by-the-Sea Hotel Review | Hotels Above Par

"Tucked in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea, I found La Playa to perfectly embody the village’s quirky, bohemian charm. Nestled among salt-soaked trees and off-beat architecture, the historic property was first built in 1905 as a seaside manse by artist Christian Jorgensen for his wife Angela Ghirardelli, became a hotel 12 years later, and evolved from a stone mansion into a Spanish Colonial–style edifice with terracotta-hued roof tiles, stained-glass windows, colorful ceramic stair risers, and fountain surrounds. Notably, Steve Jobs unveiled the MacBook computer prototype here during an Apple team in 1983. The recent $20 million renovation by Marc & Rose Hospitality with design by Post Company (reopening in Fall 2023) retains the historic character while adding whimsical touches like scalloped light fixtures and custom dark-wood furniture; the January 2024 opening party even featured an immersive theatre performance by Shonda Rhimes’ IAMA group. Luxury here is effortless and understated: champagne is served each morning with a carefully curated breakfast buffet—standouts being bite-sized zesty avocado toast, berry-soaked bread pudding, locally baked pastries, and constantly manned omelette and waffle stations—and chauffeurs quietly shuttle guests around the village. The rambling hotel’s 75 rooms and suites are cozy and characterful thanks to antique-style wooden furniture, rustic tiled bathrooms, and custom plaster lights; offerings range from Poolside Casitas that open onto the outdoor pool with fireplaces and seating areas, to Garden Patio rooms with small, plant-concealed terraces, Classic rooms overlooking the village, sunset-facing Ocean View, Premier and Superior rooms, and three spacious Suites with the best vistas. Days invite lounging in the beautifully landscaped gardens, a game on the giant chess set, or a swim; evenings suit sunset cocktails on patio furniture or the elevated terrace where fire pits replace the evening glow. Bud’s, the on-site dark, moody restaurant and bar, serves well-executed American favorites (oysters, Caesar salad, burger—recommended—and steak) alongside an adventurous cocktail menu; regulars can even reserve lockers for stored liquor, and the playful 10-minute “Dime Time” 10-cent drinks tradition nods to former proprietor Howard E. “Bud” Allen. The hotel also hosts a complimentary wine happy hour in the lobby, lays out freshly baked cookies after 9 pm, offers free WiFi, room service, a shuttle van service within a five-mile radius, and versatile event spaces (Pacific Room, Garden Room, Fireside Room, courtyard and arched colonnade) for meetings and celebrations. With no gym but plenty of nooks for reading, furnished patios, and easy access to Ocean Avenue shops and the beach three steep blocks away, it’s the kind of place designed for a slow vacation." - Dan Howarth