"Zamas – meaning 'new beginnings' – is the creation of two escapees from San Francisco, Daniel and Susan, and the product of years of beach-time dreaming. Like hundreds of other people who visit Mexico on holiday every year and fall in love with it, they discovered Tulum on their honeymoon and decided to make it their paradise home. In the years since, Tulum's Beach Hotel Zone has grown, with flashy boutiques and trendy eateries becoming the norm, but thankfully Zamas occupies the furthest end, where the vibe is still reassuringly down to earth. The retreat's rustic cabanas are nestled in a cove on the Maya Riviera where sardines are pursued by pelicans. Some have immediate access to the idyllic white-sand beach and the peaceful bathtub-warm water that make Tulum so enchanting; others are set back from the shore, surrounded by tropical gardens. There's also an airy self-catering house with enclosed gardens, six bedrooms and a private pool, sweeping sea views and full access to the hotel facilities. Although busier by the year, there are still pockets of Tulum that retain the old bohemian charm – and it still arguably has the best beach on the Yucatán Peninsula. Highs The friendly atmosphere makes you feel at home The beautiful beachside location means it's a footfall from the Caribbean Sea, yet well placed for exploring Tulum's ruins by foot or bicycle The cabanas have a Caribbean feel, there's a cooling pool and you can fall asleep to the sound of the waves crashing on the beach The villas are great value – particularly if there are 6-12 of you Excellent cocktails at the beachfront restaurant, with live music in the peak season and chilled-out DJ sets every Sunday Lows A noisy road runs next to the property and some accommodation is set on the far side side of this, away from the beach (Casa Vallejo, some Garden rooms and all Jungle rooms) The beach is small and the shoreline is rocky, so it's not great for swimming, but there is a communal swimming pool Seaweed build-up along this bit of coast can be an issue - it comes and goes but can make the water appear murky (and can also smell a bit when it collects on the shore!)" - Lucia Appleby