Hotel Los Castanos, Near Ronda, Spain - Explore & Book
"You’re in the mountains. Chestnut forest surrounds you. The postman takes October off to join the harvest, and when it’s over the village celebrates: roasted chestnuts, a suckling pig, a band in the square and all-night dancing. Cartajima, population 100, is that rarest of Andalucian finds: an untouched white village, with barely any visitors, and views to die for. Everyone lives off the land: besides chestnuts, there are olives, cherries, almonds, mushrooms and mosto wines. Narrow stepped lanes snake to the church, whose tolling bell is the only sound on a summer afternoon. Tucked right next to it, the hotel - an amalgam of three village houses - is small, simple and comfortable; surprisingly so, perhaps, for such a tiny hamlet. There are 6 whitewashed bedrooms, a generous sitting room with fireplace and honesty bar, and home-cooked dinners if you ask. The crowning glory is a sun-soaked roof terrace with inspirational views over the wooded Genal valley to the lunar summits of the Sierra de las Nieves. It was this panorama that clinched it for owners Frank and Antje, who escaped the Berlin and Brussels rat races to start a new life here with their young kids. They're part of the village now, running the hotel - it's really more of an overgrown B&B - with a very relaxed informality. Hike out of the village on track through chestnut forests to the river, or jump in the car and head to glittering Ronda; it’s a 25-minute drive. If you want utter peace on the side of an Andalucian mountain, you've just found it. Highs The location - an idyllic village in a pristine setting, in easy striking distance of RondaFabulous hiking and outdoor activities - you can book customised packages from 3-7 days with guides and route mapsThe roof terrace is a great spot to sit and do very little - plough through a novel, perhaps, or write oneEach bedroom has a small balcony, so you can drink in the views of village or valleyOur home-cooked dinner, courtesy of Frank in chef mode, was excellent Lows Service is more B&B than hotel-style - no reception staff or waitresses, for exampleYou're up in the mountains and will need a car to explore; some might find the roads here a little hair-raisingDon't expect a menu: dinner is whatever Frank feels like cooking (though special diets can be catered)No pool at the hotel, but there's a village pool up the road (July-Aug only)Cartajima is a seriously sleepy place: apart from fiestas (and a little Saturday merriment in the village bar), it's dead quiet" - Michael Cullen
