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"We were thrilled to unearth this gem. It has that elusive alchemy of a semi-private beach, contemporary styled suites and – unexpected bonus – truly outstanding Greek cuisine. If you think that’s a contradiction in terms, imagine still-warm chocolate-brown carob bread with homemade baba ganoush, baked sea bass stuffed with aromatic greens and served with a verbena sauce, or bitter chocolate soup with strawberry sorbet and blobs of mint sauce – washed down with superb Santorini wines, while waves lap at your flip-flops and the sun sinks into an inky sea. Life doesn't get much better.The setting is magnificent. You look out over the placid waters of the Pagasitic Gulf, its horizon ringed by rugged lilac mountains. Take a swim before breakfast – flying fish skimmed the water in front of my nose – then wander into the pretty fishing village of Afissos, or explore Pelion's wooded hills by bike, horseback or miniature train. Service comes with a smile, and rates are reasonable. Each suite sleeps 2-4, thanks to a separate sitting room which makes it work well for families, though we think this would be perfect for couples without children who fancy an upmarket Greek beachside hideaway. Highs The food really is an eye-opener: we thought it some of the best we've ever tasted in 20 years of visiting Greek hotelsWe also liked the chic homely suites, with their brushed concrete-effect walls, large abstract tableaux and heavy designer fabrics – though they may not be to everyone’s tasteIf you tire of the lovely sand-shingle beach on your doorstep, there are 2 more within 15 minutes' walkWith only 7 suites (one of them added, presumably, after they chose the name), it feels delightfully exclusivePelion makes a refreshing change from the barren Greek islands, with its cooler summers, dappled olive and beech woods, and picturesque stone villages Lows You'll need to book early: the season is short, and Exi Kleidia (to use its Greek name) has a faithful following among the cognoscenti of Athens and ThessalonikiThe near-constant soundtrack of chilled music irked me a bit, but it starts mid-morning, so you can wake to the sound of the waves at leastYou may never use your ensuite sitting room: the outdoor seating (both private and communal) is even nicerSome suites come with a fireplace or sunken jacuzzi, but these tend not to be operationalIt's a bit of a devil to reach (unless you can find a rare flight into Volos): expect 2.5 hours' drive from Thessaloniki, 4 from Athens" - Michael Cullen

Shabby-chic suites, beachfront terraces, romantic dining
Kallifteri Beach Afissos Pelion, 370 10, Greece Get directions