"If you want to slip away from commercialism and clamour, book a cheap flight to Bari and head north to the somewhat unlikely environs of Andria. Here, amid low rocky hills overlooking the olive-studded coast, sits a fortified farm with 40 chimneys bristling around a gravelled courtyard. The great iron gates swing open and you're greeted by Pietro, a gentle, unassuming father of two who spends his summers harvesting olives and fruit, and his winters crafting furniture from giant fennel trunks.Lama di Luna excels not for what it has, but what it doesn't have: no gimmicks, no distractions, no noise. You're ensconced in thick vaulted bedrooms, you sleep in unbleached cotton sheets on feng-shui beds, you wash with pure olive soap, you breakfast on organic jams and dine on homemade pasta. If you want to explore, the fantastical Bourbon Castel del Monte and the under-rated port of Trani await; by happy coincidence, one of Puglia's loveliest restaurants hides in the village down the lane. But don't plan too much: bring a good book, a special companion, and empty your mind. That's what it's all about. Highs We think the place has soul, which is one of the hardest things to create in a hotelPietro is a kind host, offering multilingual advice, free bicycles and advice on hikes or horse ridesYou can help harvest grapes, pick olives or make pizzas and pasta in the old ovenInspirational eco technology, including 48 solar panels and a computer-controlled heating systemIt's all very pure: no artificial materials, no sharp edges, totally tranquil at night Lows The pool is quite coldLimited WiFi in some bedrooms The location lacks obvious wow factor, but there are interesting towns to explore nearbyThe nearest beaches (Barletta, Margherita di Savoia) are not Puglia's best" - Michael Cullen