"In the seven minutes it takes to whoosh up the mountain (a cable car is the only way to go), you will feel reborn. On a Vigiljoch summit, a mile above the Ultimo Valley, the air is crisp, clean and scented with pine forest; the views are sensational, ice-capped Dolomites seen from green (or snowy) alpine slopes. And for once, the contemporary hotel is a perfect match for the landscape. Designed by Milan-based architect Matteo Thun, it’s straight out of the pages of Wallpaper*: a 21st-century take on the Tyrolean lodge, with two decks of rooms housed in low rectangles of glass, clad in horizontal bars of larch. Inside, all is crisp clean-cut geometry and warm earth colours, big vistas and glittering quartz striped with sunlight and shade. From the huge cow hide sofas in the lobby, travel along runways of gallery-like space to the piazza, and on to the spa with a springwater infinity pool. Wander up to the panorama terrace and watch the sunset or the dawn. Like all proper resorts, everything you need is right outside the door. Highs An exercise in holistic ‘ecotecture’, this linear building is a work of artHanging out in the piazza – the sunken, sunlit courtyard at Vigilius' heart, lined with plush red sofasBathing in the spa’s frothy al fresco hot tub under a blue sky or a canopy of snowy pines – absolute blissTwo excellent restaurants: choose between haute cuisine and rustic Tyrolean fareNo roads, no traffic, just the distant sound of cow bells – a complete escape Lows Prepare to feel isolated - but you do get unlimited use of the cable car and chairlift during your stay If you are expecting a typical Italian ambiance, you may be surprised: South Tyrol is bilingual Italian-German, with scenery more reminiscent of AustriaIf you don't like minimalism, you may find the interiors a bit pared downThe WiFi gets turned off at night, but not until 11pm (plus no phone use permitted in communal areas - the focus here is on a digital detox)" - Lesley Gillilan