Klaw is too expensive to not care about the little things - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"Klaw really impressed when it first opened in 2022. But the details inside this Edgewater restaurant have slipped since then—and every detail should matter at the most expensive steakhouse in Miami. Service is still great, which makes it a useful restaurant for people celebrating milestones who never check their bank accounts. The space is stunning too. To get here, you ride up a golden elevator to a teal dining room that belongs inside a seaside castle. It has an incredible view of the bay, a decorative mezzanine, and chandeliers. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings photo credit: CLEVELAND JENNINGS / @EATTHECANVASLLC Pause Unmute But look closer. You’ll see how it’s slowly unraveling. That elevator is more scuffed than a third-grader’s sneakers. Tables are scratched and sauce pourers are chipped. Meat gueridons, tableside crab deshelling, and the impressive wine list are a nice touch. But they don’t make up for the overcooked and underseasoned steaks or the dry beef tartare. For the price you’re paying, everything should be flawless. But the flaws are visible and edible. Are we being persnickety? Absolutely. But you can do that when you’re signing $1,000 checks under chandeliers with blown-out lightbulbs. Klaw was always expensive, but we used to trust it to deliver an experience that backed up the price. They’re no longer putting in the same effort. Until they do again, save some money and bypass the restaurant. Take the scuffed elevator up to Klaw’s rooftop, where you can soak in a $1,000 view for the price of a martini. Food Rundown Beef Tartare “On Toast” Everything about this $36 tartare is dry—the bread, the beef, and the feeling it leaves in your bank account. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malavé Chop Salad Think of this as a cobb salad without the chicken. It’s 50% bacon, appropriately excessive, and exactly what we’d like to see more of from Klaw. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malavé Norwegian King Crab Legs & Claws Getting king crab flown in from Norway has always been the point of coming here. It's still one of the best crustaceans we’ve ever had. But now Klaw gives you the option to order one whole. Do that, and they’ll deliver it to your table while it’s still alive so you can poke it and take pictures with it. Nothing quite ruins a romantic date like watching a dude in sunglasses pay $125 a pound to ridicule a live crab he’s going to eat. So stick to the legs and claws. And don’t taunt your food minutes before it dies to feed you. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings Braunvieh Tomahawk Klaw uses UK temperatures, which means their medium steak is served medium rare. But despite warnings, the $250 tomahawk is overcooked and gristly. Plus, it’s underseasoned. We know that sometimes it's best to let the meat shine, but we can’t even tell it’s dry-aged. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malavé Golden Sweet Potato We have to give it to the sweet potato. It arrives in a gold foil diaper and tries its damnedest to impress with a silly tableside production that includes torched pecorino. But after all that, it just tastes like a baked sweet potato with some cheese and miso butter. PlayMute video credit: Mariana Trabanino" - Virginia Otazo
