"On paper, Dunsmoor might seem like any other cool restaurant around Northeast LA. It’s dark and loud, there are tiny candles on the tables, and they pour a whole lot of natural wine. But this Glassell Park spot from the former chef of Hatchet Hall has something those other “cool” places don’t: a huge roaring fire in the dining room. And though it does give the room a warm, amber glow, it’s also what makes the Southern-leaning food here some of the best we’ve eaten all year. Almost every dish, from the sour milk cornbread with green chiles, seared albacore crudo with ginger and shallots, and ribeye so beefy it could be a nightclub bouncer, gets kissed by coals and tastes all the more spectacular for it. Whether going whole hog for dinner in the front dining room or popping into their backroom wine bar for a plate of oysters and cider, Dunsmoor is the kind of place we want to become a regular at. " - brant cox, nikko duren, sylvio martins, garrett snyder
