Wagyu Butcher turns yakiniku into a show, starring premium beef - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"LA has plenty of spots where you can grill your own meat, but none quite like Wagyu Butcher. Here you’ll get a front-row seat to a master butcher from Osaka, who carves hunks of well-marbled beef with the precision of a sculptor, then hands you slices of meat that you’re expected to grill like you know what you’re doing. Located in a Torrance strip mall, this lowkey spot has just 20 seats and 10 tabletop grills on a counter that wraps around the open kitchen, so bring a friend or date for a fun night of searing wagyu together and clinking shochu highballs or giant mugs of Sapporo. The state-of-the-art grills are equipped with fans that suck the smoke downward so your clothes won’t smell like campfire after, and you’re handed a big pair of metal tongs to cook each item to taste. There are two omakase options at $50 and $70 available–both excellent deals–though the addition of freshly chopped beef tartare and Japanese A5 wagyu make the more expensive tier an easy yes. photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp Pause Unmute The tasting menus kick off with snappy pickled vegetables, salad, and seasonal kimchi before launching into five or seven rounds of beef, then finishing off with a comforting rice or soup dish like an oxtail curry rice bowl or ochazuke. The cuts vary nightly and come from all parts of the cow, so let the staff know if you’re not into offal like liver or intestine and they’ll swap in something else. We do wish some leaner cuts were more seasoned, but overall, each grilled piece dissolves in your mouth faster than the last, which means your teeth are basically along for the ride. The delicate slices cook faster than you think though, so don’t get too caught up in conversation and forget to flip. Food Rundown Today’s Kimchee The ideal tangy accompaniment to all the rich grilled beef you’ve eating, and we love that Wagyu Butcher makes their kimchi with unique vegetables like okra and mountain yam. It’s hard to ration the single serving for the full meat parade, but you can always order another side a la carte for a few bucks. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Beef Tongue We appreciate a nice slab of tongue, and while the thick-cut slices here are quite tender, they're also one of the more forgettable cuts. Each order is served simply with just a wedge of lemon for seasoning, but we wish it came with a sprinkle of salt, too. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Outside Skirt Steak We usually think of skirt steak as a tougher, chewier cut, so it’s a nice surprise that this well-marbled one breaks down effortlessly even when cooked medium-rare. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Kalbi Short Rib Kalbi is a standby at pretty much any restaurant where you’re grilling meat, but this version stands out for flavor and beefiness. The light marination brings out the meat’s richness, and the sweet-savory dipping sauce is great, too. A5 Hida Wagyu The final course of the omakase is a couple of slices of well-marbled wagyu from Japan dusted with salt and pepper, and it’s obvious why it's the finale (translation: the beef practically dissolves on contact with your tongue). photo credit: Jessie Clapp Beef Tendon Ponzu Wagyu Butcher requires ordering one of their omakase menus, but you can also supplement from their a la carte menu, which we highly recommend if you have the stomach space. Most items cost between $5-7, including unique cuts like heart or tail, plus appetizers like braised tripe stew or (our favorite) snappy bits of braised beef tendon in citrusy ponzu. Butcher’s Curry Rice After the last cut of beef lands you might not think you need anything else in the world, but then this dish arrives to warm your soul: a bowl of rice topped with a rich, tomato-y oxtail curry, plus a hot cup of bone broth to sip on the side. photo credit: Jessie Clapp" - Cathy Park
