Backbone - Review - La Crescenta-Montrose - Los Angeles - The Infatuation

"Strolling around Montrose is like ending up in one of those too-good-to-be-true mountain towns from a Hallmark Channel movie. The main drag of Honolulu Avenue is lined with cutesy boutiques, a retro bowling alley, and bakeries that make us want to give it all up and open a scone shop. But less common are restaurants like Backbone, a splashy dinner spot where you can get dressed up and eat tasty, thoughtful, just-cheffy-enough food without sacrificing any of that signature foothill charm. This polished American-ish spot—run by the husband-and-wife chef duo that founded McCall’s Meat & Fish—has all the modern restaurant design tropes: exposed rafters, those curved back wooden chairs you see everywhere, and an airy open kitchen. It’s a comfortable space with a warm energy that works for all kinds of occasions, whether that’s appeasing fussy, kaftan-wearing parents or dates whose online profile reads “pet-nat enthusiast." You’ll rarely see anyone, locals or otherwise, show up without a reservation. The plush blue banquettes against the wall are usually filled with married couples splitting rich, pull-apart lamb shoulder over polenta, or retired professors catching up over a nice piece of seared fish. If you’re dining solo or just two, booking a seat at the black marble bar is worthwhile, too. We love snacking on neatly played dishes like pickled albacore tartare and buttery squash-filled agnolotti while the bartender sneaks us a pour of whatever’s being decanted on the counter. Backbone isn’t necessarily a restaurant we’d send anyone across the city to experience, but it isn’t meant to be either. It is, however, the kind of reliable neighborhood spot everyone wishes they had in their neighborhood—and sometimes that’s the Hallmark fantasy we all want. How to get into Backbone Reservations are released four weeks in advance at midnight and get booked quickly, especially for parties larger than two. Seats at the bar are slightly less competitive, but you’re still going to need a reservation, so plan ahead. Food Rundown Uni A tiny waffle topped with uni reads like a gimmick, but it’s a fun way to start a meal at Backbone. The thick yuzu cream and nori honey butter on top complement the sea urchin brininess without overpowering it. photo credit: Brant Cox Smoked Pickled Albacore This appetizer is basically lox dressed up as tartare, and it works. The chopped capers contribute some pop and there’s a creamy, herby remoulade at the base. photo credit: Brant Cox Steak Tartare Our favorite dish. The tartare has a nice hum of heat from espelette pepper and the eye-catching buñuelo is a clever crispy-fried vehicle to shovel it all into your mouth. photo credit: Brant Cox Butternut Squash Agnolotti All the pasta at Backbone is made in-house and it shows, so whether this aggressively autumnal butternut squash agnolotti is on the menu or something else that catches your eye, it'll be a good call. photo credit: Brant Cox Pacific Vermillion This pan-seared rockfish with crispy skin comes with clams, baby squash, and a herby green sauce. It's simple, maybe even a little boring, but don’t underestimate the power of a well-cooked piece of fish. photo credit: Brant Cox Pumpkin Cake Our brains are telling us this dessert is probably seasonal. With its crackly candied crust and scoop of tangy cream cheese ice cream though, our hearts hope it sticks around all year. photo credit: Brant Cox" - Brant Cox