Kyma - Review - Buckhead - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"It only takes one meal at Kyma to discover why it’s stuck around since 2001. Actually, you’ll know as soon as the first course of assorted hummus with soft pita triangles hits the white tablecloth. The seafood-heavy Greek restaurant serves an octopus dish that should be the benchmark of the city. It’s marinated with red onions and olives, and doesn’t really need to be chewed because it’s so tender. But they also have excellent takes on scallops, smoky salmon caviar, and whole roasted fagri that you can pick out yourself from the ice bed behind the hostess stand. Loud conversations from nearby tables of longtime Buckheadians and groups of business colleagues get progressively softer as you get into the thick of your meal. Food Rundown Assortment Of Four Spreads A full serving of each spread is $7 each, but for $14, we prefer the tasting. A little four-compartment container holds a nice dollop of olive tapenade, red pepper htipiti, hummus, and eggplant melitzanosalata. Our favorite is the htipiti because the roasted peppers give off a little smokiness, and chunks of feta give it a strong cheesy taste. Ceviche Though a decent ceviche, this is pretty mild and not a flavor standout on the small appetizer section. Pill-sized bits of sea bass mix with lemon, jalapeño (that somehow adds very little spiciness), tomato, and mint. There are far better things to order here. Salmon Caviar This is a must-order from the small plates menu. Paper-thin cuts of salmon sit beneath globs of salty caviar and a yogurty crème fraîche. A few sprigs of dill make it all taste fresh, and crushed peppercorns give it a little bite. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Octopus OK, we know we said the salmon caviar is a must-order, but if you can only order one appetizer at Kyma, it should be this. The wood-grilled octopus is marinated with olives, capers, and red onion slivers. It’s cut into bite-sized pieces and cooked so tender that you don’t need to chew it, but do it anyway because the tangy flavors are worth savoring. photo credit: Amy Sinclair “Bbf” Lamb Pie You can watch the chef prepare this dish on an episode of Beat Bobby Flay (you get the “bbf” now?). And spoiler: he did beat Bobby, and that makes sense because this dish is really good. The chunks of lamb inside fall apart if you just look at it, and the creamy yogurt on the bottom provides a nice contrast to the crispy filo crust. European Sea Bass Get this. Before they cook this dish, they present it to your table on a tray—it’s basically a mound of salt with a little fish tail peeking out. When it’s cooked, they bring it back out and flambé it tableside. Then it’s time to give it a squirt of lemon and dive into the flaky fish that’s swimming in butter. Be prepared to fight for the last bite. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Lamb Chops Fight through your Atlanta lamb chop fatigue, and order these. You get three, plus a tower of Greek fries (thick potato rounds with a bit of cayenne) and a pile of tzatziki for dipping. The lamb chops are marinated for three days in a blend of spices and fall away from the bone with merely a push from your fork. Greek Donuts We almost never have room for dessert here, but we always power through for a taste of these little fried balls of sweet dough. The donut holes have a drizzle of honey, a dusting of cinnamon, and a few crushed walnuts to give it a nice crunch. It’s the perfect way to end a meal." - Juli Horsford
