"Elastika is consumed with appearances. That usually triggers an alarm within us. We've learned to question anything in Miami that looks too good to be true and have witnessed our fair share of pay-by-hour Lamborghinis lose control on the causeway. But Elastika has style and substance. The first thing you notice when you walk in is Zaha Hadid’s installation, Elastika, which is where the restaurant gets its name. It stretches above the dining room and across its columns like a thick web of white sticky taffy, looming over guests sitting in velvety mint booths and drinking $22 cocktails. But food is ultimately Elastika’s focus, and it demands your attention too. The menu uses whatever’s locally in season—romano beans, Florida tomatoes, sun shrimp, avocados—to produce dishes that make sense with our climate. This means refreshing flavors in the summer that work better than your car’s struggling A/C. Ingredients change often, but there’s a consistent emphasis on vegetables. Even the bread arrives with a roast vegetable jus and local datil peppers spice up cocktails. Portions are on the smaller side but the plates are layered with rich flavors, textures, and ingredients. Dishes look like they were plated by a watchmaker with an art degree. Some are stacked so delicately, servers carry them to tables like they’re on balance beams. The restaurant’s dining room occupies the entire atrium of The Moore, a historic building that’s now a hotel and member’s club (that’s what’s happening on the second floor). Taking on a space like this is daunting. The food has to live up to the design, or the experience is wasted. But Elastika understands the assignment and does more than match the gorgeous space in style and flavor—it helps ease our mistrust of pretty things in this city. Food Rundown video credit: The Infatuation Florida Tomato Gazpacho Our eyebrow lady could take some pointers from Elastika’s tweezerwork. At the bottom of the bowl is a beautiful bouquet of rolled and pinched cucumber ribbons and pickled vegetables. Your server then drowns them with creamy gazpacho. It’s a little sad to watch, but ultimately delicious. photo credit: Virginia Otazo Aged Kingfish Crudo This dish takes time—seven days, according to them. The kingfish is dry aged before it gets surrounded by pickled vegetables and topped with fermented farro. Despite its delicate appearance, it has very strong flavors. The farro is a little earthy, the pickled vegetables bring acidity, and the cucumber agua chile brightens everything up. photo credit: The Infatuation Bison Tartare Mix the bison with the pickled pearl onions, umami crumble, and egg yolk with the tangy aioli escabeche sauce at the bottom or the dish doesn’t work and tastes dry. But if you do, you get lots of textures and deep flavors. photo credit: The Infatuation Housemade Squid Ink Orecchiette This dish feels like it accidentally meandered onto the menu and made itself a quiet little home in a neighborhood full of fussy food. It’s a filling dish with veal and pork bolognese that fills the crevices of every black orecchiette. video credit: The Infatuation Miso Marinated Grilled Bavette Steak Elasika might not look like the kind of place where you should order a steak, but do. It’s a sweet and savory dish with charred meat, spiced dates, and carrots. And the whole thing cuts like a hot knife through cake." - Virginia Otazo
