"A Flushing mainstay for the past 24 years, this restaurant near the Long Island Expressway was one of the first in the neighborhood to focus on Taiwanese classics. The interior hasn’t changed much over the years, but it’s the reliable comfort food favorites that draw people in over and over. The Fly’s Head, a classic Taiwanese dish of minced pork and garlic chives, has a salted black bean flavor with a tinge of spiciness. The stir-fried beef with basil is super juicy. And the bitter melon with salted duck egg is a surprise favorite for anyone that’s super into savory. But the real stars may be any dishes cooked in three-cup style, including chicken, squid, or fried tofu, with the perfect balance of soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice wine that come with enough sauce that you’ll end up ordering extra rice to sop it all up. Food Rundown Chef Lin’s Fish Fillet This house special with flounder and soft tofu is one of our favorite items on the menu. The fish is lightly breaded, and the tofu is simmered in a blend of sweet chili sauce and fermented bean paste (dou ban jiang)—a nod to Sichuan cooking. The sauce is flavorful, but it doesn’t overwhelm the silky textures of the flounder and tofu. Bitter melon with salty egg Bitters are essential in modern mixology, and bitter melon is essential to a proper deep dive into Taiwanese cuisine. When you stir-fry (rather than steam or braise) bitter melon, it retains a lot of bitterness, but the flavor works well here paired with the earthy bites of preserved egg. Minced Pork, Black Bean, with Leek Also known as Fly’s Head, this classic Taiwanese dish usually comes with finely chopped garlic chives instead of the leeks used here. This version is spicy and tangy with a good amount of crunchiness. We love eating spoonfuls of it over rice. Three Cup Chicken Okay, we know you can get three cup chicken at every Taiwanese restaurant. But this is one of the best versions of the Taiwanese classic you can find in Flushing. The chicken here is incredibly aromatic, tender, and flavorful, with a good amount of Thai basil and shiitake mushrooms. The portions are generous, so you should have plenty left over to take home. Three Cup Tofu Vegetarians and vegans can opt for this three cup dish, which comes with puffy fried tofu and thinly sliced ginger. The sauce here is a bit more delicate and subtle than the sauce for the three cup chicken, and there’s a lighter amount, so the crispy tofu doesn’t get soggy. Minced Pork over Rice Also known as lu rou fan, this dish under the Taiwanese Local Snacks section of the menu is one of the cheapest—and it’s also one of the best. The version here involves lots of fatty pork that tastes like it was simmered for hours." - Diana Kuan
