One If By Land, Two If By Sea Review - West Village - New York - The Infatuation
"One If By Land, Two If By Sea hosts an average of two proposals a week, and many more than that around Valentine’s Day. Whether or not you anticipate a diamond ring hidden under a cloche to arrive at your table, it’s worth visiting this historic West Village restaurant at least once for a special occasion, to bask in its gorgeous, 18th-century charm. Dining here feels a little like you’ve crashed someone else’s wedding dinner, but they’re being awfully nice about it. In a 1767 building that was once Aaron Burr’s carriage house, the restaurant has a reputation as one of New York City’s most romantic for good reason. It’s beautiful, with brick walls and high ceilings, arched windows with garden views, pink roses on every white-clothed table, and massive chandeliers. That's despite a few self-consciously lovey-dovey modern touches—like the wall dripping with fake flowers, or the soundtrack of piano covers like “Fields of Gold” and “Walking in Memphis,” which detract somewhat from the natural atmosphere. photo credit: Alex Staniloff video credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Alex Staniloff The food neither detracts, nor distracts. It's a little dated, attractively plated, occasionally good, and generally forgettable. Factor in that it’s pretty steep: $185 for the seven-course tasting or $155 for a three-course prix fixe (that's what we'd pick). But the knowledge that someone at a nearby table might get down on one knee at any moment makes for a fun guessing game on the off chance that you’re just here for an anniversary or a parent’s birthday yourself: Who walked into the restaurant already clutching a bouquet? Who’s making meaningful eye contact with the host? Which couple just ordered champagne? Food Rundown photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Pan-Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras This thick puck of foie on a circle of toasted brioche isn’t exceptional, but it is nice, with a crisp, deep brown sear as promised. Order it to make your prix fixe feel more cost-effective. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Duck Ragu Pappardelle The duck is tender, the noodles are silky, and there’s a subtle smoke to the sauce that adds complexity. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Beef Wellington The medium-rare beef wellington you ordered may prove to be nearly purple in the center, but it’s otherwise well executed, with great flavor to the duxelles and perfectly crisp pastry. The mashed potatoes are buttery, but the flabby green beans taste a little like they were microwaved from frozen. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Roasted Cornish Game Hen We appreciate that the skin is crisp and herby, but the meat is dry. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Chocolate Soufflé This soufflé has a fairly dark and robust chocolate flavor (especially delicious when paired with vanilla bean-flecked crème anglaise), but the center is runnier than most. It’s almost like a lava cake—not that we’re necessarily complaining." - Molly Fitzpatrick
