Alpana - Review - Gold Coast - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Alpana is a Gold Coast Italian restaurant for wine geeks. The wine list here is about 25 pages long and includes quotes from Norah Jones, Bette Davis, and Best In Show. The dishes are less exciting, but good in the scheme of cut-and-paste restaurants with plant wallpaper and plants hanging from the ceiling (of which Alpana very much is). The burrata is served with beets and oranges tossed in a sweet dill vinaigrette, adding herbaceous acidity to the cheese. And the pasta with sundried tomatoes, broccolini, and chili flakes has a lot of flavor while being a little oily. But you’re here most of all for a casual night at the bar, or to see if that bottle from Sonoma does have notes of “lead pencil.” Food Rundown Burrata Like a lot of the food here, the burrata is both solid and far from innovative. But if you’re working through a bottle from the “When In Rhone” section and need some fresh fruit and cheese, this is a solid choice. Filet Mignon Occasionally, the steak is overcooked. And the bland cognac peppercorn sauce is underwhelming—it has a mustardy flavor but little else. Short Ribs The short ribs are perfectly tender and have a tiny sweetness from the red wine reduction. Mixing the ribs with the mascarpone polenta makes for one of the richest bites here. Pasta Romero All of the ingredients add up to an oily but flavorful dish that’s good for sharing. The big pieces of fennel sausage cost extra, but give a welcome peppery kick to the dish." - Nick Allen
