"At the risk of sounding cliche (or like a liar who’s never eaten real carne asada), the food at this plant-based taqueria in Logan Square is worth seeking out even if you’re not vegan. photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik Don Bucio’s is the sister restaurant of Bloom, another spot that always impresses us with its vegan glory. But the menu here focuses primarily on tacos, and Don Bucio’s keeps it simple with five options. There are fillings like crispy al pastor made from legumes and vegetables, barbacoa made with guajillo-braised jackfruit, and fried mushrooms that mimic a fried fish taco so successfully it's alarming. Each has complex layers of spicy flavor, and are made with either blue or thick, chewy housemade corn tortillas. Besides the tacos there are entrees like fajitas, made with soy-based flank steak that’s texturally satisfying but doesn’t feel like meat-mimicking frankenfood. photo credit: Kim Kovacik The space is fun, casual, and the dining room has a soft, warm glow thanks to ‘80s Trapper Keeper colors and pink neon lights. They have deals like late-night Happy Hour and $22 all-you-can-eat tacos, and those specials will inspire you to eat way more vegan al pastor than you originally planned on when you walked in. Actually, the food at Don Bucio’s is good enough to do that either way. Food Rundown photo credit: Kim Kovacik Chicharrónes Con Salsa Don Bucio’s food evokes—rather than imitates—meat-based things. Case in point, this giant chicharron made of fried flour that is as reminiscent of fried pork skin as, well, fried pork skin. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Trompo Al Pastor The crispy-yet-tender mixture of legumes and root vegetables is shaved from a trompo, topped with pineapple and onion, and topped with a little aioli that adds richness. It’s sweet, spicy, and we wish we were eating one right now. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Baja Taco Don Bucio’s great fish taco hack involves tempura-fried portabella mushroom, slaw, and a chipotle aioli. We can say with confidence that it’s better than 87% of the actual fish tacos we’ve eaten in Chicago. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Barbacoa The jackfruit is braised in guajillo and stuffed inside a thick blue tortilla that holds up to the spicy filling admirably. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Nopal Milanesa Torta We’re not sure what kind of plant-based sorcery Don Bucio’s uses to make the fried cactus stay crunchy despite being surrounded by refried beans, escabeche, and mojo verde. Plus, the breading never slides off mid-bite. It’s a perfectly constructed sandwich. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Steak Fajitas The steak in question is a soy-based flank, served with grilled vegetables and a side of handmade corn tortillas. The best way to eat this is to shred the steak (which shreds in a meat-like way that’s both delightful and disconcerting) and load it up with the hot sauce and salsa." - Adrian Kane
