"A tiny aerodynamic miracle occurs when the kitchen and front doors at Saranrom Thai open at the same time. The smell of fish sauce caramelizing and frying chilis rushes through the railroad-sized Elmhurst restaurant and straight into your nose. It’s the sort of highly seasoned air that keeps neighborhood regulars coming back (and therefore the door open) and primes your brain for one of the best Thai meals in New York. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff Saranrom’s cooking pulls from regional traditions all over Thailand, and stands out for being notably herb-packed rather than spicy. Their kee mao thai has enough clean Thai basil flavor to work as a substitute for Vicks Vaporub, as well as some of the longest, chewiest rice noodles we've met. Even if the food generally doesn’t reach the heat levels of some of our other favorite Thai spots in the neighborhood (Hug Esan or Zaab Zaab), there's plenty about the menu to remember—especially the yum pla duk fu, a mango salad with catfish that’s fried, then shredded, and sops up the juicy salad. The restaurant has no flash or glamor, and it doesn't need any. Once you're seated, someone who works there will smile and ask if you want your meal coursed out, or if you’d like another $10 sweet and floral sake cocktail. And you do, probably. Because you're going to want to stay in that vortex of fish sauce air for as long as it's socially acceptable. Food Rundown photo credit: Alex Staniloff Hoy Tod This pancake studded with a half dozen mussels tastes like a sea breeze trapped in a boardwalk funnel cake. While some more mussels would be nice, this is an excellent starter to split with a couple of people. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Yum Pla Duk Fu This is the best thing on Saranrom’s menu, and one of our favorite Thai dishes in the city. The catfish has a texture somewhere between pork floss and cornflakes, and does its job of mopping up all the bright, fish-sauce-fueled green mango salad juice underneath. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Kang Kua Sator When you see the four chili emojis on the menu, you might think this curry is going to be hot-hot. In reality, it's sweet and warm, and something we’d happily eat in our pajamas several times a week, even if the heat falls a bit short of expectations. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Kee Mao Thai If you've got a stuffy nose, order this kee mao thai, which has foot-long rice noodles, a little kick, and an herby menthol quality we love. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Crispy Pork With Basil Crunchy, chewy pork with a fragrant basil sauce. Order this only if you have several people at your table so you can finish the dish quickly, because as soon as the pork cools down, the skin becomes a little hard to bite through. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Durian Sticky Rice A creamy, warm way to end your meal. Make sure to get one of these on your table." - Will Hartman
